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November is early dormancy — heating systems have been running for weeks, indoor humidity has crashed, and spider mite populations are building up on dry-air-stressed leaves. Holiday plants start arriving this month: poinsettias in garden centers, Christmas cacti at grandmothers' houses. Some of them are pet-safe. Some of them very much aren't. This guide covers all of it.

What's happening to your plants in November

By early November, days in the Northern hemisphere are much shorter than nights and still shortening toward the December solstice minimum. Most tropical houseplants are now fully in what amounts to "maintenance" mode — they're alive, they're photosynthesizing at reduced rates, and they're not growing meaningfully. A snake plant that grew through spring and summer may produce no new leaves at all over winter. That's expected.

The physiological process at work is a gradual reduction in metabolic rate across almost every cellular function: photosynthesis, root activity, nutrient uptake, and transpiration all slow together. In the Northern hemisphere, November days are among the shortest of the year.

The second November variable — and the one that does active damage rather than just slowing growth — is the heating system. Forced-air heat that's been running since October has now had weeks to reduce indoor relative humidity. By November, many heated homes see indoor RH well below what tropical plants prefer. The consequence is visible: brown leaf tips and edges on calatheas and prayer plants, spider mite populations exploding in the dry air, and root systems taking longer to recover from any overwatering incident because of the overall moisture imbalance in the environment.

This is also the month when the first wave of holiday plants arrives. Poinsettias, Christmas cacti, and — later in November — sometimes amaryllis bulbs starting to be sold as pre-planted gifts. These plants deserve a clear-eyed look at their pet toxicity before they enter a home with cats, dogs, or small children. More on this below.

Southern hemisphere readers: November is your late spring — growth is accelerating and you're heading toward summer solstice, not dormancy. Invert this advice and read the May guide for season-appropriate guidance.

Light this month

November light is among the lowest of the year — only December and January have shorter days. The sun rises later, sets earlier, and tracks a low arc across the sky. On overcast days — common in northern latitudes in November — usable light through any window may be genuinely minimal.

By window position:

  • South windows: Your most valuable real estate now. At low November sun angles, south-facing glass receives the most consistent direct light available. Consolidate your highest-light-demand plants here.
  • East windows: Morning sun, limited duration, moderate intensity. Adequate for pothos, heartleaf philodendron, and snake plant. Not sufficient for anything that needed strong light in summer.
  • West windows: Equivalent to east in November — limited duration afternoon light. Similar plant suitability.
  • North windows: Genuinely challenging now. Only your most shade-tolerant plants — ZZ plant, cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), possibly a trailing pothos — will hold at north windows through winter without deteriorating.

Supplemental grow lighting is no longer optional for many setups. If you have calatheas, monsteras, or any plant that needs medium-to-bright indirect light, running a full-spectrum LED grow light on a 12 to 14 hour timer (the range University of Missouri Extension gives as adequate when plants also get some natural light) is the most reliable way to prevent dormancy-related leaf drop and maintain baseline health through winter.

One practical tip: don't assume your window is doing more than it is. If you have a light meter or a phone app that measures lux, check your reading at plant height in the middle of the day and compare it with what your plants need: University of Missouri Extension puts medium-light plants at 250 to 1,000 foot-candles (about 2,700 to 10,800 lux).

Watering adjustments

November watering should be conservative to the point of what feels like benign neglect for drought-tolerant species. With growth at or near zero, soil stays wet almost indefinitely if you water on a summer schedule. Check the soil before every watering, and expect it to need more time than you think.

Guidelines by plant group:

  • Snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata, formerly Sansevieria trifasciata), ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia): Let the soil dry out between waterings; NC State Extension advises watering snake plant only every one to two months in winter.
  • Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum): Water when the soil is dry to the touch down an inch or so, per Iowa State Extension, and expect that to take longer than in summer; NC State Extension advises slowing down on watering heartleaf philodendron in winter.
  • Peace lily (Spathiphyllum), calathea, prayer plant: Keep slightly moist but not soggy. These are more sensitive to drying out completely, but still reduce frequency. Check regularly and water when the top inch or so is dry, per the same Iowa State rule.

The failure mode is overwatering. In November, root rot develops more slowly than in warm summer conditions, which means it can advance considerably before surface symptoms appear. If a plant's soil never seems to dry out, unpot it and check the roots. Healthy roots are white and firm. Rotted roots are brown, soft, and smell unpleasant.

The watering frequency calculator at /care/watering-frequency-calculator is worth revisiting this month with your winter-adjusted variables — smaller pot size, lower light, and lower temperature all extend the interval between waterings.

Humidity

By November, if you haven't already set up humidity support, you're likely seeing the consequences. UC IPM notes that the low humidity typical of most indoor situations favors spider mite development, as do dusty conditions. Iowa State Extension notes that winter is when many people first notice spider mites on houseplants, and that dry indoor air and reduced plant vigor seem to favor them.

NC State Extension recommends "a humidity level above 60%" for zebra plant (Calathea zebrina) — a standard that heated November indoor air rarely meets.

Your November humidity toolkit:

  • Pebble trays: Essential for calathea, prayer plant, Boston fern, and other humidity-sensitive species. Refill the water in the tray regularly — it evaporates faster than you'd expect.
  • Room humidifier: The most effective option. A cool-mist ultrasonic humidifier near your plant collection will raise the local RH meaningfully. Run it on a timer during daylight hours.
  • Grouping plants: Transpiration from leaves adds moisture to the air immediately around a plant. Grouping high-humidity species together gives them a mild cooperative benefit.
  • Move away from heating vents: Direct heated airflow landing on leaves accelerates moisture loss and can cause tip burn. Check every plant's position relative to floor and wall vents.

Avoid misting as a primary strategy. Misting adds brief surface moisture to leaves but doesn't meaningfully raise ambient RH in the room. In November's lower temperatures and reduced air circulation, standing water on leaves in the evening can encourage fungal issues on susceptible species.

Pest pressure this month

November is peak spider mite season in heated indoor environments, full stop.

UC IPM notes that spider mites prefer hot, dusty conditions and that, when temperature and food supplies are favorable, a generation can be completed in less than a week. A small mite colony can become a serious infestation if not caught and treated.

Signs of spider mites to check for this month:

  • Silvery or pale stippling on leaf surfaces — feeding damage to individual plant cells
  • Fine webbing across leaf undersides, at stem joints, and between leaves in heavy infestations
  • Tiny mobile specks (adult females are less than 1/20 inch long, per UC IPM) visible under a hand lens on leaf undersides
  • Overall dulling of leaf color and gradual plant decline without an obvious other cause

Check every plant for mites when you water in November. Pay particular attention to the undersides of calathea leaves, the crowded fronds of Boston ferns, and the dense nodes of pothos vines. Iowa State Extension puts regular, frequent inspection first and notes that dry indoor air seems to favor the mites; its houseplant pest guide adds that increasing humidity can slow their population growth.

Fungus gnats are also possible in November, usually a consequence of overwatering. Their larvae live in moist topsoil and damage fine root hairs. If you see small dark flies near your plants or hovering over soil, allow the soil surface of affected pots to dry between waterings, as UC IPM advises. Sticky yellow traps catch adults and give you a sense of population size.

For identifying exactly which pest you're dealing with, see /care/spider-mites-vs-thrips-vs-whiteflies.

Tasks for this month

  • Raise humidity before spider mites establish: Set up or check your pebble trays, humidifier, and plant groupings. Keeping ambient moisture higher is the most effective environmental spider mite control.
  • Cut watering to winter frequency: Check soil before every watering — never water on schedule alone.
  • Inspect for spider mites often: Check the undersides of leaves on your most susceptible species — calathea, pothos, peace lily, fiddle leaf fig — every time you water.
  • Move plants away from heating vents and cold windows: Both extremes — direct heat and cold glass — stress plants and make them more vulnerable to pest and disease issues.
  • Assess incoming holiday plants: Any poinsettia, Christmas cactus, or other holiday plant entering your home this month needs a toxicity check before it's placed where pets or children can access it.
  • Run grow lights for critical plants: If you're keeping calathea, monstera, or other medium-to-bright light plants through winter, supplemental lighting is now more important than at any other point.
  • Don't fertilize: Nothing until March for most species; Illinois Extension puts the fertilizing season between March and September.

Plants to focus on this month

Snake Plant

Snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata) is the November starter. It tolerates low humidity, low light, low watering frequency, and temperature fluctuation better than almost any other common houseplant. Per the ASPCA, snake plant is toxic to cats and dogs via saponins — nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea if consumed. Keep away from pets. See /plants/snake-plant-care.

ZZ Plant

ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) stores water in its underground rhizomes and doesn't care about dry air in the way calatheas do. It can sit in a north window in a heated dry apartment all winter and look fine. Per NC State Plant Toolbox, ZZ plant is toxic to cats and dogs via calcium oxalates — keep out of reach of pets.

Pothos

Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) remains useful in November because it genuinely keeps growing at reduced pace even in difficult conditions. Per the ASPCA, pothos is toxic to cats and dogs. See /plants/pothos-care.

Holiday Plant Arrivals: Poinsettia

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) appears in garden centers and grocery stores throughout November. The mythology around poinsettia being extremely toxic is largely overstated — per the ASPCA, poinsettia is mildly toxic to cats and dogs via irritant sap, causing mouth irritation and occasional vomiting. Serious systemic toxicity from poinsettia is not well documented. That said, "mildly toxic" is still toxic — keep it out of reach of pets. From a care perspective, UMN Extension recommends a south, east or west window with bright daylight, indoor temperatures of 65 to 70°F, and no cold drafts. Avoid letting it sit in standing water. The colorful bracts (modified leaves) drop quickly in sub-optimal conditions.

Holiday Plant Arrivals: Christmas Cactus

Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera × buckleyi) is one of the genuinely welcome holiday plant arrivals — per the ASPCA, whose entry uses the name Schlumbergera bridgesii, it is non-toxic to cats and dogs. A pet-safe holiday plant that flowers and requires minimal care is a rare thing. It blooms in response to long nights and cooler temperatures: NC State Extension advises at least 13 hours of uninterrupted darkness every night in mid-September and night temperatures of 55 to 65°F. Keep it in a cool room, water sparingly, and don't fertilize.

What NOT to do this month

Don't ignore humidity. It bears repeating: spider mites are genuinely hard to eradicate once established, and the single most effective prevention is raising ambient humidity in your plant space. Dry air in November is a structural problem, and a pebble tray or humidifier is the structural solution.

Don't fertilize. Plants in November dormancy cannot use nutrients effectively. Salts from unused fertilizer accumulate in the soil and can damage fine roots.

Don't overwater dormant plants. Check soil before every watering. When in doubt, wait and check again in a day or two, as Iowa State Extension advises.

Don't place holiday plants near pets without checking toxicity first. Poinsettia is mildly toxic and usually survivable if a pet nibbles it; other holiday plants are more concerning. December's guide covers amaryllis, mistletoe, and true lilies in detail — all in a more serious toxicity category.

Don't mist plants for humidity. It doesn't work well and can promote fungal issues in November's reduced air circulation.

Don't move plants to "give them more light" by putting them directly against cold window glass. A plant sitting against single-pane glass on a freezing night can suffer cold damage to its outermost leaves; Illinois Extension warns that cold glass can damage foliage. Pull plants back from the glass.

Frequently asked

Why are the leaves on my calathea turning brown at the edges in November?

Almost certainly low humidity from heating. Calathea (Calathea spp.) is among the most humidity-sensitive common houseplants, and brown leaf edges are their primary distress signal for dry air. Check that your plant isn't near a heating vent. Add a pebble tray directly under the pot. Consider grouping it with other high-humidity-demand plants. If conditions don't improve, a small humidifier running near the plant is the most reliable fix. Note that calathea is non-toxic to cats and dogs per the ASPCA, so it's a good choice for pet households despite its demanding humidity needs.

How do I know if I have spider mites or something else?

Spider mites produce characteristic fine stippling or silvery speckling on leaves from individual cell damage, and webbing between leaves and on stem joints in moderate to heavy infestations. Thrips leave silvery streaking on leaves and dark fecal specks. Mealybugs produce visible white cottony masses, especially at stem nodes. Fungus gnats are small dark flies hovering near soil. For a detailed comparison, see /care/spider-mites-vs-thrips-vs-whiteflies. UC IPM notes that the low humidity and dusty conditions typical indoors favor spider mites.

Is it normal for my plants to not grow at all in November?

Yes, for most species. Many tropical houseplants produce little or no visible new growth between November and February in Northern hemisphere homes. Slow or zero growth is appropriate for this time of year — it's the plant reading its environmental inputs correctly. The baseline expectation should be "maintain existing leaves in good condition" rather than "produce new ones." If existing, mature leaves are yellowing, browning, or dropping, that's a sign of a problem. If the plant just isn't pushing new leaves, that's November being November.

Sources: NC State Extension — Calathea zebrina, UC IPM — Spider Mites (Tetranychus urticae), UC IPM — Houseplant Problems, Iowa State Extension — Spider Mites on Houseplants, Iowa State Extension — Houseplant Insect Pests, ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants — Snake Plant, ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants — Golden Pothos, ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants — Calathea, ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants — Poinsettia, ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants — Christmas Cactus, NC State — Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera × buckleyi), NC State — ZZ Plant, NC State — Snake Plant, NC State — Heartleaf Philodendron, Iowa State Extension — How to Care for Houseplants, Illinois Extension — Houseplant Care, University of Missouri Extension — Lighting Indoor Houseplants, UMN Extension — Poinsettia, UC IPM — Fungus Gnats