Philodendron hederaceum is the trailing, heart-shaped-leaf vine that gets sold in hanging baskets next to pothos at every garden center. It tolerates low light, forgives missed waterings, and looks generous and lush within months. It's toxic to cats and dogs per the ASPCA — keep it out of reach of pets that chew.
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What it is
The accepted scientific name is Philodendron hederaceum (Jacq.) Schott per Kew POWO. You'll see Philodendron scandens on older labels — that's a synonym per MBG, not a different species.
Family: Araceae. Native range is Mexico through tropical America, including the West Indies, Central America, and South America down to Bolivia, per Kew POWO. The plant is a hemiepiphyte — it climbs trees in the wild using aerial roots, grows in the wet tropical biome.
This is the vining philodendron — distinct from the upright self-heading philodendrons (like 'Pink Princess' or 'Birkin') that don't trail. For care of the broader philodendron genus including the climbing and self-heading types, see our philodendron care guide.
Light
Bright indirect light. MBG describes the requirement directly: "Place in bright indirect light. Avoid full sun. Tolerant of shade, but if conditions are too dark, stems become spindly."
NC State lists the tolerance range as deep shade to partial shade. In practice, an east-facing window or a few feet back from a south window works well. Direct hot afternoon sun scorches the leaves.
If the plant looks leggy with long bare stems and small leaves, the light is too low. Move it closer to a window.
Watering
Keep the soil slightly moist; reduce watering in winter. NC State describes it as "slightly moist" — not soggy, not bone dry. MBG recommends regular watering during the growing season with reduced watering from fall to late winter.
Root rot is the main watering failure mode — same as every other tropical aroid. Make sure the pot drains.
Humidity
Medium humidity. NC State calls for "medium relative humidity" — meaning the plant tolerates average indoor air well. You don't need a humidifier or pebble tray for this one, unlike calatheas or Boston ferns.
Soil
Soil-based potting mix with good drainage per MBG. Standard houseplant mix with extra perlite works fine. The pH preference isn't documented in primary extension sources for this species.
Temperature
Average indoor temperatures per NC State. MBG lists USDA Hardiness Zones 11–12 outdoors, meaning the plant won't tolerate frost. Bring it inside before the first cold snap if you've been growing it outdoors in summer.
Pet safety
Toxic to cats and dogs per the ASPCA's Heartleaf Philodendron entry. Toxic principle is insoluble calcium oxalates. Symptoms include oral pain and swelling, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. NC State also notes contact dermatitis from the sap.
Common problems
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Leggy stems, small leaves, long gaps between leaves | Light too low per MBG | Move to brighter indirect light; pinch back trailing stems to encourage bushier growth |
| Yellow lower leaves, mushy stems | Overwatering, root rot | Unpot, trim rot, repot in fresh airy mix; let dry between waterings |
| Brown crispy edges | Underwatering or low humidity | Water more consistently; consider pebble tray if your home is very dry |
| Aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, scale | All possible per MBG | Wipe leaves, treat with insecticidal soap or neem, repeat weekly for 3–4 cycles |
| Fungal leaf spots | Wet foliage from overhead watering per NC State | Water at soil level, not from above; trim affected leaves |
Propagation
Stem cuttings root easily in water. Take a 4–6 inch cutting just below a node, remove the lowest leaf, and drop the node in water. Roots appear in 1–2 weeks. Pot when roots are 2 inches long.
You can also lay a long vine across moist potting mix in a separate small pot and pin one of the nodes down — it'll root in place, after which you can cut the connection to the parent plant.
Heartleaf philodendron vs. pothos
These two get confused constantly. Both are vining aroids with heart-shaped leaves. The reliable differences, per Illinois Extension:
- Petiole groove: Pothos has a distinct channel running along the petiole; heartleaf philodendron has a smooth rounded petiole. This is the easiest single test.
- New leaf emergence: Heartleaf philodendron's new leaves emerge wrapped in a thin papery sheath called a cataphyll, which turns brown and falls off as the leaf matures. Pothos doesn't have cataphylls.
- Aerial roots: Pothos has one thick root per node; heartleaf philodendron has multiple thin roots per node.
- Leaf texture: Pothos leaves feel thicker and waxy with slight surface texture. Heartleaf philodendron leaves are thinner and smoother.
For the full identification guide and care implications of the distinction, see pothos vs heartleaf philodendron.