I bought my first heartleaf philodendron at Home Depot for $7 in 2022. It outlived a $40 fiddle leaf fig I bought the same day. That's the philodendron promise: nearly indestructible, fast-growing, and surprisingly varied. The genus contains over 600 accepted species per NC State Extension, but only a dozen show up in most apartments. This guide covers the six I actually own — heartleaf, Brasil, pink princess, micans, Selloum, and Birkin — plus what I'd skip and why.
The six philodendrons worth owning
If you walk into any houseplant subreddit thread on philodendrons, you'll see the same six varieties cycle through. They're the ones that ship reliably, propagate quickly, and forgive beginner mistakes. The rest are either fussy collector species (Gloriosum, Verrucosum) or rare-trade plants priced at $80+ for a single node.
Heartleaf (Philodendron hederaceum)
The default. Sold under "philodendron" with no further qualifier. Trailing vine, glossy heart-shaped leaves, grows in nearly any light. My first one is now eight feet long across a bookshelf. Worth knowing: commonly mislabeled as "sweetheart plant" or confused with pothos at retailers. The tell is the leaf texture — philodendron leaves are matte and pliable, pothos leaves are glossy and stiff.
Brasil (P. hederaceum 'Brasil')
The yellow-streaked cultivar of heartleaf. Same care, more striking. Loses variegation in low light — this is the mistake that killed my first one. I had it in a back corner for two months and it reverted to solid green, then dropped leaves. Move it to bright indirect within a week of arrival.
Pink princess (P. erubescens 'Pink Princess')
The Instagram famous one. Bubblegum pink variegation on dark green leaves. Costs $30–80 for a small plant, varies wildly with how much pink the photo shows. Same care as other erubescens — climbing, prefers a moss pole, wants brighter light than heartleaf. Will revert if pink-only leaves dominate. Cut back to a half-pink node if you see all-pink growth.
Micans (P. hederaceum var. hederaceum)
Velvet-leaf variant of heartleaf. Iridescent bronze-purple new growth. Care is the same — but micans is the philodendron most likely to dry out fast because the thin velvet leaves transpire heavily. Water when the top 1.5" is dry, not 2".
Selloum / Hope (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum)
The big one. Tree-like with deeply lobed leaves. Floor plant, not desk plant. Wants more light than the climbers and more space than most apartments have. Don't buy one for a small space — mine is in the corner of the living room and is already five feet wide at year three.
Quick taxonomy note: you'll still see this sold as Philodendron bipinnatifidum or Philodendron selloum at most nurseries. A 2018 paper in PhytoKeys formally moved it to the genus Thaumatophyllum, and Kew's Plants of the World Online now lists Philodendron bipinnatifidum as a synonym of Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum. Care is identical either way.
Birkin (P. 'Birkin')
White pinstriped leaves. Mutation of the Rojo Congo. Slow grower, stays compact, ideal for shelves. The only philodendron on this list I'd call genuinely fussy — drops leaves if you let it dry out completely.
How I actually water mine
The textbook answer is "let the top 2 inches dry between waterings." The real answer depends on your pot, soil, light, and which philodendron. Here's what I actually do:
- Spring/summer: Every 7–10 days for heartleaf and Brasil. Every 5–7 for micans. Every 10–14 for Selloum.
- Fall/winter: Every 14–21 days across the board. They slow down, and I've root-rotted two philodendrons by sticking to my summer schedule in November.
- The test: Stick a chopstick or your finger in 2 inches deep. If it comes out with soil clinging to it, wait. If it comes out clean and dry, water.
I root-rotted two philodendrons by sticking to my summer schedule in November. The chopstick test is what saved the rest.
I use an XLUX moisture meter on the Selloum because the pot is too big for the finger test. Cheap ($10 on Amazon), surprisingly accurate. The meter reads "dry" before the plant is actually thirsty — I wait until it's been on dry for 3–4 days before watering.
Soil: what I mix vs. what I buy
Philodendrons want a chunky, well-draining aroid mix. Standard Miracle-Gro potting soil will work but holds too much water — you'll have to water less often, and the risk of root rot goes up. I make my own:
- 40% coco coir (the base — replaces peat, sustainable)
- 30% orchid bark (3/8" grade — creates air pockets)
- 20% perlite (drainage)
- 10% worm castings (slow nutrient release)
For one bag each of those four ingredients, you'll spend ~$45 on Amazon and have enough to repot every plant in your apartment for two years. The key ingredients: Better-Gro orchid bark for the chunky structure, Espoma perlite for drainage, and Wiggle Worm worm castings for slow-release nutrition. If you want pre-mixed, rePotme's Aroid Mix is the closest commercial equivalent. Skip Miracle-Gro Indoor — it compacts within six months.
Troubleshooting matrix
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow leaves (older, lowest) | Normal aging. One older leaf yellows every 2–3 months. | Trim. No action needed. |
| Yellow leaves (multiple, fast) | Overwatering. Most common cause of philodendron decline. | Stop watering. Check roots — see root rot guide. |
| Brown crispy tips | Low humidity (under 35%) or tap water with high fluoride. | Run a small humidifier nearby. Switch to filtered water for 2 weeks. |
| Drooping despite moist soil | Root rot starting. Roots can't deliver water even though soil is wet. | Unpot, trim black roots, repot in fresh dry mix. |
| Leggy stems, small leaves | Not enough light. Common with heartleaf in corners. | Move to bright indirect within 4 feet of a window. |
| Brasil reverting to green | Light too low for variegated cultivars. | Move to bright indirect immediately. Cut back to a variegated node. |
| Tiny black flies in soil | Fungus gnats — usually from staying wet too long. | See fungus gnats guide. Mosquito Bits + dry-out cycle. |
Pet safety: this matters
All philodendrons contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. The ASPCA classifies heartleaf philodendron as toxic to cats and dogs. Symptoms in pets include oral irritation, intense burning of the mouth, tongue, and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. The same crystals cause the same reaction in humans if ingested.
I have a cat. My philodendrons live above the bookshelves and on a hanging shelf out of reach. If your pet is a chewer, skip the genus entirely.
Propagating: water vs. soil vs. moss
Philodendrons root easily from stem cuttings. I've tried all three methods. Water propagation is fastest to see results (roots in 7–14 days) but the water-rooted plants struggle when transitioned to soil. Soil propagation in damp aroid mix takes 3–4 weeks and produces stronger plants. Sphagnum moss is the goldilocks middle — fast like water, transition-friendly like soil.
I use moss for everything now. Damp sphagnum in a clear container, cuttings with one node submerged, lid cracked for airflow. Roots in 10–14 days, transplant straight to aroid mix.