For a mature monstera (producing aerial roots and fenestrated leaves): use a moss pole — it encourages the aerial roots to attach and produces larger, more fenestrated leaves. For juvenile monsteras with small, uncut leaves: no support needed. Bamboo stakes are emergency-only. Trellises work if you want a flatter, wider plant rather than a climbing column.
Monstera deliciosa is a climbing aroid. In the wild, it can climb to 70 feet up tree trunks, per Missouri Botanical Garden, and its leaves enlarge and develop more fenestrations as it climbs into brighter light. Indoors, the support you give it (or don't) determines whether you end up with a mature, dramatic plant or a sprawling juvenile one. Here is the honest comparison of every common option.
How big is your monstera, and what do you want?
The right support depends on two things:
- Plant stage. Juvenile with small, uncut leaves: no support. Starting to flop but no aerial roots yet: a stake. Mature, with aerial roots and fenestrated leaves: a moss pole.
- Goal. Tall and dramatic with mature leaves (a "tree form"): moss pole. Wide and flat against a wall: trellis. Just keep it upright: stake.
Option 1 — Moss pole (best for mature monsteras)
A moss pole is a stake wrapped in sphagnum moss or coir, designed for the monstera's aerial roots to grip into. As the plant climbs, two things happen:
- The aerial roots find moist material and attach, supporting the plant's weight
- The leaves enlarge and develop more fenestrations (the iconic holes) as the plant gains height
This is how you get a monstera with large swiss-cheese leaves. Without a climbing support, leaves tend to stay smaller with fewer fenestrations, even on an older plant; MBG notes that without support the plant tends to grow horizontally, and NC State says sturdy support is necessary to prevent the stems from breaking.
Best pick: Mossify Bendable Moss Pole, or for very large plants, the EOX D-shaped pole. Full breakdown in best moss pole for plants.
How to install: at repotting time, push the pole firmly into the soil at the back of the pot, tie the plant loosely, and keep the pole moist while the aerial roots attach. Full step-by-step: how to use a moss pole.
Option 2 — Trellis (best for a flatter, wider monstera)
A wood or metal trellis trained against a wall gives the monstera something to climb but spreads it sideways rather than upward. Useful if you have low ceilings or want a wider plant.
How to use:
- Install at repotting (same as a moss pole)
- Tie major branches and aerial roots to the trellis with garden velcro
- The monstera will not attach naturally to a dry wooden trellis — you have to tie everything
Tradeoffs vs. moss pole:
- Looks more architectural, less jungle
- No aerial root attachment (dry surface)
- Leaves may not get as large or fenestrated as on a moss pole
- Works well if mounted against a humid wall surface
Option 3 — Bamboo stake (emergency only)
A bamboo stake or thin wooden dowel pushed into the pot can keep a falling-over monstera upright temporarily. It does nothing for aerial root attachment or leaf development.
Use only when:
- The plant is mid-fall and you need to stabilize it now
- You don't have a moss pole on hand
- You'll upgrade to a real support at next repot
A stake is not a long-term solution for a mature monstera. On a bare stake, leaves tend to stay smaller and less fenestrated than on a moss pole.
Option 4 — No support (best for juveniles)
A juvenile monstera (small leaves, no fenestrations) does not need any support. The plant will be naturally bushy and stable on its own. Installing a moss pole on a juvenile plant is wasted — there are no aerial roots to attach yet.
Wait until the plant has produced at least one fenestrated leaf and is starting to develop visible aerial roots from the main stem. That's the signal that the plant is mature enough to benefit from a climbing structure.
What about training horizontally?
A bendable moss pole (such as the Mossify) lets you bend the pole into a horizontal or curved shape. The monstera will follow the pole, producing a plant that grows along a shelf or across a wall rather than straight up.
This is a deliberate aesthetic choice. The leaves still mature normally as long as they're on a moist moss pole. The horizontal orientation just spreads the plant differently.
The aerial root question
Monsteras produce aerial roots from the stem at each node. These are often confused with "regular roots" and trimmed off, which is a mistake.
What to do with aerial roots:
- Leave them alone if the plant has a moss pole. They'll grow toward and attach to the pole.
- Tuck them into the soil if there's no pole. MBG notes that aerial roots on the lower parts of the plant can be rooted into the soil to help nourish it.
- Trim only if they're truly in the way. MBG says aerial roots on the upper parts can be attached to a climbing pole or simply removed; trimming removes the option to attach.
Never trim aerial roots aggressively on a mature plant — they're how the plant naturally climbs and absorb moisture.
The honest summary
For mature monsteras you want to look like an established jungle plant: get a moss pole. The Mossify Bendable is the best buy for most readers; the EOX D-pole is the upgrade for very large plants. Full picks in best moss pole for plants.
For juveniles, wait. The plant doesn't need support until it's producing aerial roots and starting to flop.
For a deliberately flat, wall-mounted look: a trellis. For an emergency fix: a stake. Neither will give you the dramatic leaf development of a proper moss pole.
Sources: Missouri Botanical Garden — Monstera deliciosa, NC State Extension — Monstera deliciosa.