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Both Monstera species have those iconic fenestrated leaves, which is why they get confused so often. But the holes work differently, the plants scale completely differently, and one will take over your living room while the other stays apartment-friendly. Here's how to tell them apart and which one makes sense for your space.
Why this comparison matters
Monstera deliciosa and Monstera adansonii are genuine species siblings — same genus, similar care needs, similar toxicity — but they're not interchangeable. M. deliciosa is a statement plant that needs real space: NC State says it stays between 6 and 8 feet in most homes, with leaves up to 1 foot or more. M. adansonii is more compact, better for a hanging basket or a pole in a smaller room.
The more important point: many sellers mislabel M. adansonii as "Monstera obliqua," which is a distinct and dramatically rarer species. If you paid regular store prices and the plant has enclosed oval holes in the leaves, you almost certainly have M. adansonii, not obliqua. Knowing the difference means you're not accidentally waiting for expensive obliqua behavior from a plant that's just going to be a regular adansonii.
Both are also unambiguously toxic to pets — so if that's your constraint, the choice between them doesn't help you. Look elsewhere for pet-safe alternatives.
What they are (botanically)
Monstera deliciosa Liebm. is native to Mexico (Veracruz, Oaxaca, Chiapas) through Guatemala, living in wet tropical forest as a climbing hemiepiphyte. Kew POWO places it in the family Araceae. In the wild it can climb to 70 feet; indoors it typically stops at 6–8 feet, per NC State. The common name "Swiss cheese plant" refers to the mature leaf's pattern of splits and holes.
Monstera adansonii Schott is native to Tropical America in similar wet tropical biomes; Kew POWO gives the range as Tropical America, family Araceae. Common names include monkey mask plant and Swiss cheese vine — the "vine" part of that name is useful because it signals the more compact, trailing growth habit.
Both are in the same genus and share the general care profile. The differences that matter for the home grower are morphological (what the plant looks like) and practical (how much space it needs).
Side-by-side care table
| Need | M. deliciosa | M. adansonii |
|---|---|---|
| Light | Moderate brightness but not direct sun; variegated cultivars need more light — NC State | Bright indirect light; direct sun causes scorched leaves — NC State |
| Water | Moist, well-drained soil; do not let sit in water | Moist, well-drained soil; same general care as deliciosa |
| Humidity | High humidity preferred; NC State recommends a humidifier or pebble tray — NC State | High humidity preferred; humidifier or wet pebble tray suggested — NC State |
| Support | Sturdy support required; stems break without it — NC State | Pole or trellis recommended; also works in hanging basket |
| Size indoors | 6–8 feet tall (NC State) | 3–8 feet tall and 1–3 feet wide (NC State) |
| Soil | Well-draining, rich potting mix | Well-draining, rich potting mix |
M. deliciosa often needs more space than buyers expect. In a smaller apartment, an adansonii in a hanging basket is the easier starting point.
How to tell them apart
The key test is how the fenestrations are formed.
Fenestration type is the key diagnostic. Monstera deliciosa develops splits that extend all the way to the leaf edge, creating separate lobes on mature leaves. Think of a leaf that's been cut from the edge inward — the "holes" in deliciosa are really slots open to the margin. NC State describes M. adansonii, by contrast, as having "heart-shaped leaves and unique oval holes" — holes enclosed within the blade rather than open to the margin.
Monstera adansonii has oval to irregular holes that are fully surrounded by leaf tissue. The holes do not reach the leaf edge. On a mature adansonii, the leaf looks like Swiss cheese — holes punched through intact leaf tissue. On a mature deliciosa, it looks like the leaf has been sliced open from the outside.
Young M. deliciosa plants often don't have splits yet — juvenile leaves are solid heart-shaped ovals that look almost nothing like what the species is famous for. This is where many buyers get surprised. Give it a moss pole and bright indirect light, and the splits develop as the plant matures.
Scale is the next difference. NC State notes M. deliciosa leaves reach 1 foot or more, and MBG gives 1–3 feet long on plants climbing in the wild. M. adansonii leaves are typically smaller; NC State says they can reach 18 inches wide in the wild but are usually smaller as a houseplant. The whole plant footprint follows: deliciosa becomes a substantial room presence; adansonii is manageable in most spaces.
Leaf texture differs noticeably. M. deliciosa leaves are thick and leathery. M. adansonii leaves are glossy but thinner and more delicate — a difference you can feel with your hands.
The mislabeling problem. Monstera obliqua is a distinct species that's dramatically rare in cultivation and has extremely perforated, almost lacy leaves with very little solid leaf tissue. If a plant at a garden center is labeled obliqua and has normal-looking holes, it's almost certainly adansonii. Genuine obliqua is a collector's plant with serious scarcity and price to match.
Pet toxicity
Both species are toxic to cats and dogs via insoluble calcium oxalates — the same toxic principle found in many aroids. The ASPCA lists Monstera deliciosa (under the common name "Ceriman") as toxic to cats and dogs, with clinical signs including oral irritation, pain and swelling of mouth, tongue and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing.
For Monstera adansonii, the NC State Plant Toolbox says "This plant is toxic to humans and pets if ingested" and gives calcium oxalate crystals as the toxic principle. Treat it with the same caution as deliciosa.
If you have pets that chew plants, neither of these Monstera species is a safe choice. If a pet chews either one, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. More detail: Is monstera toxic to cats and dogs?
Which one should you get?
Pick Monstera deliciosa if:
- You have a large room and want a real statement plant. A mature deliciosa with a moss pole, proper light, and a few years of growth genuinely looks like tropical jungle decor.
- You have the vertical space and something sturdy to support it — NC State specifically notes sturdy support is necessary to prevent stems from breaking.
- You're patient. It takes time and good light for a juvenile deliciosa to start producing the dramatic split leaves.
Pick Monstera adansonii if:
- You have a smaller space or want a trailing vine for a hanging basket.
- You want the Monstera look without the footprint commitment.
- You're more sensitive to direct sun issues — NC State notes adansonii is particularly prone to scorched leaves in direct sun, which means keeping it in well-controlled indirect light is important.
For both: no pets with access, a humid room, and bright indirect light are the non-negotiables. Neither tolerates wet feet — well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes are essential.
Frequently asked
Why doesn't my Monstera deliciosa have splits yet?
Juvenile M. deliciosa leaves are solid — no fenestrations, no splits. The splits develop as the plant matures and as individual leaves get larger. NC State notes leaves can reach 1 foot or more and that only mature leaves develop the holes; the splits are typically more pronounced on large mature leaves. Providing a moss pole encourages the climbing behavior that triggers more mature leaf production. Bright indirect light and patience are the usual prescriptions.
Is Monstera adansonii really different from Monstera obliqua?
Yes, substantially. Monstera adansonii is the plant commonly sold in garden centers under either its correct name or mislabeled as obliqua. Monstera obliqua is a genuinely rare species in cultivation with dramatically more perforation relative to solid leaf tissue — some obliqua leaves are more hole than leaf. If you bought a plant inexpensively at a mainstream retailer, you almost certainly have adansonii.
Do both Monstera species need a humidifier?
Both prefer high humidity. NC State recommends a humidifier or pebble tray for M. deliciosa, and NC State suggests the same for adansonii. Neither NC State page gives a percentage. Misting is not a fix: Penn State Extension notes that the rise in humidity lasts only until the water evaporates, which can happen in a matter of minutes. A humidifier is the dependable option for both. Brown leaf edges can be a sign that the air is too dry.
Sources: Kew POWO — Monstera deliciosa · Kew POWO — Monstera adansonii · NC State — Monstera deliciosa · NC State — Monstera adansonii · ASPCA — Ceriman / Monstera deliciosa · Missouri Botanical Garden — Monstera deliciosa · Penn State Extension — Humidity and Houseplants